Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity

Hydroxy acids (HAs) represent a class of compounds which have been widely used in a number of cosmetic and therapeutic formulations in order to achieve a variety of beneficial effects for the skin. We review and discuss the most frequently used classes of these compounds, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, and describe their applications as cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, in particular on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. Furthermore, we summarize the very limited number of studies dealing with the modifications evoked by topical application of products containing HAs on photocarcinogenesis. In spite of the large number of reports on the cosmetic and clinical effects of HAs, their biological mechanism(s) of action still require more clarification. Some of these mechanisms are discussed in this article along with important findings on the effect of HAs on melanogenesis and on tanning. We also emphasize the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Thus, HAs play an important role in cosmetic formulations, as well as in many dermatologic applications, such as in treating photoaging, acne, ichthyosis, rosacea, pigmentation disorders, and psoriasis

Effects of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Hydroxyacids on Sun-Exposed Skin: Current Applications and Future Developments

This paper describes recent data on the effects of various skin formulations containing hydroxyacids (HAs) and related products on sun-exposed skin. The most frequently used classes of these products, such as α- and β-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, are reviewed, and their application in cosmetic formulations is described. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, particularly on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. We also discuss the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Data on the effects of HAs on melanogenesis and tanning are also included. Up-to-date methods and techniques used in those explorations, as well as selected future developments in the cosmetic area, are presented

Isotopeneffekte bei der photochemischen Umwandlung von Tritium-markiertem Uracil

Bei der UV-Bestrahlung von Uracil-[5.6-3H] bilden sich je nach eingestrahlter Energie dimeres Uracil und Uracil-Wasseranlagerungsprodukt [5.6-Dihydro-6-hydroxyuracil] als radioaktive Photoprodukte. Während bei der Synthese des Wasseranlagerungsproduktes ein beträchtlicher sekundärer Isotopeneffekt wirksam wird, verändert sich die Radioaktivität des dimeren Uracils gegenüber der des Ausgangsuracils kaum. Wird das Wasseranlagerungsprodukt durch Erwärmen zu Uracil zurückgewandelt, so dehydratisiert das Molekül ebenfalls unter Mitwirkung eines Isotopeneffektes. Wird das Uracildimere zu Uracil rückgewandelt, so beobachtet man keinen Isotopeneffekt. Bei der Bestrahlung von Uracil in Tritium-haltigem Wasser werden nur sehr geringe Radioaktivitäten in die Photoprodukte eingebaut. Der Isotopeneffekt beträgt ca. 8. — Durch Synthese der Photoprodukte aus spezifisch an C-5 oder C-6 Tritium-markiertem Uracil bzw. durch Bromierung von 5.6-Tritium-markiertem Uracil bzw. dessen Photoprodukten zu den 5-Brom-Derivaten erhält man Hinweise, daß der Geschwindigkeits-bestimmende Schritt der Wasseraddition an C-6 des Uracils verläuft. Die inversen sekundären Isotopeneffekte betragen für Tritium an C-6 etwa 0,65, für Tritium an C-5 dagegen nur 0,95